How to do
a transmission removal and clutch replacement
By Brian
Duley
I. Warning:
Removing
a transmission and replacing a clutch is a complex and
time-consuming procedure. By replacing it yourself, you alone are
responsible for the safety and functionality of yourself and
vehicle. If you do not want to take that chance, I recommend that
you take you car to a Nissan certified mechanic. This article was
written after my clutch was replace and the transmission was
re-installed. It is very possible that I left out a few steps or
remembered them differently. Read the entire article before
starting, you may find something too challenging for your level of
skill. If you have any additional information that you would like
to see added to this page, send me an email.
II. Get
the proper tools and parts for the repair:
A.
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, torque wrench, socket wrench, 3/8"
universal joint, extensions (total of at least 20" long combined).
Oh, maybe some Duct Tape.
B.
Wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.
C.
Automotive support and lift tools to lift the car high and support
the car safely: jack stands (4 large ones preferable), ramps (to
place under tires for extra safety), suitable transmission jack
(see below).
Note: The
car is lifted very high off the ground and can become unstable the
higher you lift it. Look how high my car is off the ground. I used
2 jack stands and 4 ramps (only 2 touched the tires the other 2
ramps just for safety if the car was to fall. The car should be
level when lifted up. Don't get one end higher than the other.
Below is
a picture of my floor jack that I converted to a transmission jack.
I bolted a piece of plywood (aprox. 1'x2'x3/4") to a floor jack and
used a 6' nylon strap with ratchet mechanism to secure it. You may
need a few pieces of wood to hold the transmission at the correct
angle. It is very important not to put the center of gravity of the
transmission beyond the base of the floor jack because it will tip
over. The transmission is very heavy, expensive, and awkward.
You can
also rent or buy a real transmission jack. A scissors transmission
jack will cost about $60 to $70. A hydraulic transmission jack will
cost about $120 to $180. These prices are from a Northern Hydraulic
catalog, which has tons of tool and shop equipment. I could not
find a place in town that sells one so I made one. You can also
rent a transmission jack, look in the yellow pages under
rentals.
D. A
creeper is useful ($20-$40).
E. Clutch
kit (usually includes clutch plate, pressure plate, throw-out
bearing, a pilot bushing). I bought a Cyclone full Kevlar clutch
from Clutch Masters for about $550. I did not replace my pilot
bushing.
F.
Plastic clutch alignment tool is a must, it only costs $2-$3 and
works for most Nissans/Datsuns (some times included in clutch
kit).
G. Rear
crankshaft oil seal ($17) and some high temperature gasket maker
($3). (Both are optional but highly recommended. You are a fool if
you don't. I don't want to hear about any one who has to remove
their transmission again to replace that seal). I also recommend
that you replace the two PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)
valves ($4 each) because if they get clogged, pressure will build
up in the crankcase. The hot gasses will most likely escape through
the rear crankshaft seal. The hot gasses also causes the rear
crankshaft seal to become hard and brittle much like the hoses that
connect to the PCV valve. Hard brittle PCV valves hoses are nearly
impossible to reinstall, so get the original hoses or buy some
straight oil resistant PCV valve hose. You will also experience a
big puddle of oil on your garage floor if either PCV valves or rear
crankshaft seal is bad. I also recommend replacing both PCV valves
and PCV valve hoses before you replace the rear main crankshaft
seal. The job is independent of the rear crankshaft seal
removal.
H. You
need to get your flywheel resurfaced (after you remove the tranny).
It cost me $25 to get the flywheel resurfaced, the Z has a single
step surface, double step surfaces cost more. Call a few automotive
machine shops or transmission shops to get a price for the
resurfacing. You may want to buy a lightweight aluminum flywheel
from Stillen ($300 I think) but I think you still need to have it
resurfaced so ask Stillen for more details.
I. Nissan
recommends lubricating some parts with Lithium grease. So you many
need a grease gun and some grease.
J. It is
a good idea to change your manual transmission gear oil. I only
recommend Redline MTL or Redline MT-90 synthetic manual
transmission gear oil. The service manual say you need 5-7/8 pints
(almost 3 quarts) or 2.8 liters of API GL-4 gear oil for a TT or
NA. I paid $8.25 for a quart of Redline MTL and you need to buy 3
quarts. It is worth it!
K. The
transmission removal and installation is much easier to do if you
have a friend to help you. One person can remove and install every
thing else.
L. I
recommend you read How to change your center support bearing &
transmission mount by Tom Bell. You may want to replace something
else or get more information about removing some parts.
III.
Automotive Hints:
1) When
you remove a bolt, it is a good idea to screw the bolt back in
after removing the part. That way when you put the part back in,
you have all the screws where they belong.
2) Group
bolts and nuts after you remove them. Put them in a plastic bag
(zip-lock) or container that you can label. One bag for exhaust
bolts, one bag for tranny bolts, etc...
3) Use a
hand held florescent shop light. Flashlights suck because they go
dim after a few hours. Standard household light bulbs burn out when
you drop the light.
4) When I
say, "remove the 10 mm bolt", that means use the socket or wrench
you need to use is a 10 mm. The hex head has a 10 mm diameter. The
treaded part of the bolt is actually 6 mm in diameter.
5) Since
you are saving a few hundred dollars by replacing the clutch your
self, you should invest some money in some useful tools for the job
(hand tools, tranny jack, air tools, etc.). You may want a Nissan
service manual for an additional reference. I got mine for $73 from
Dyment Distribution Services (800) 247-5321. You can also get a
free 90-96 Sales Brochures Too! Look in the back of your owner's
manual.
6) Read
the entire numbered instruction before you perform the task. I may
give you a hint towards the end of the instruction that would be
useful to know before the performing the task.
7) You
also may want to gut you precats because with the transmission
remove you can remove the down pipes completely and it will be
easier and much safer to do than if the transmission was still in
the car. I recommend that you read the TwinTurbo Dallas tech page
on Pre-Cat Gutting. Gutting the pre-cats are not needed to replace
the clutch, it is optional.
III.
Remove the exhaust:
1) Remove
the mufflers and the H-pipe all in one piece.
2) Remove
the catalytic converters.
IV.
Remove the starter:
1)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery
2) Remove
the small heat shied from the starter. (There are 2 heat shields on
the starter). There are two 10 mm bolts that hold it in. One bolt
is on the top and one on the bottom.
3) Remove
the bottom nut (14 mm) that holds the starter to the tranny.
4) Remove
the top bolt (14 mm) from the starter. You need a medium length 14
mm closed-ended wrench; the longer ones will not work because the
turbo is in the way. I used a 16" pipe to push the end of the
wrench because you can't get any leverage on the wrench with your
hand.
5) Make
sure negative battery terminal is disconnected from the battery.
Then disconnect the big positive battery cable from the starter
with a 12 mm socket.
6)
Disconnect the starter solenoid wire.
7) Remove
starter.
V.
Slave Cylinder removal:
1) Remove
the two bolts that hold on the slave cylinder to the tranny.
2) Tie
the slave cylinder to the Power Steering rod. To keep it out of the
way and not bend the hose too much.
VI.
Remove the drive shaft:
Note:
there are two drive shafts. You want to remove the drive shaft on
the transmission side. The two drive shafts are connected using
four 17 mm bolts.
1) Remove
heat shield.
2) Place
a long steel bar in the u-joint to prevent the drive shaft from
turning. The transmission should be in neutral.
3) Remove
the four 17mm bolts that hold the two drive shafts together. I used
an 18 mm socket on my torque wrench due to clearance and limited
torque of other methods.
4) Remove
the 2 bolts that hold the drive shaft bearing support.
5) Jiggle
the drive shaft to remove it from the transmission. It pulls
straight out.
VII.
Transmission removal:
Note: You
should use jack and wood block to press up on oil pan or disconnect
air intake hoses to prevent engine from tilting back too far (maybe
radiator hose too) when the tranny is removed. I recommend that you
use a jack and a wood block.
1) Remove
the 6 of the 8 bolts (14 mm) that hold the transmission to the
engine. Keep the far left and far right ones in to hold in the
transmission; you do want to loosen them up. The 2 bolts on the top
are very hard to get to, this is where you need the 14mm socket
attached to the 3/8" u-joint attached to about 20" worth of
extension attached to a torque wrench or a socket wrench with a
breaker bar/pipe. This is where the duct tape comes in handy. You
may want to wrap some duct tape around the socket u-joint to
prevent it from wobbling too much. It takes some time but good
luck. You may want to remove battery to see top passenger side
transmission bolt.
2) Remove
4 of the 6 bolts (14 mm) that attach the rear transmission mount
bracket to the car.
3) Remove
the 4 bolts for the gear shift knob support bracket that connect
the tranny to the bracket.
4) Remove
the bolt that connects the gear shift knob to the tranny, right at
the small u-joint.
5) Remove
the three wiring connectors at the top of the tranny.
6) Move
transmission jack into place and strap tranny to jack using
appropriate shims where necessary. Use a strap with a ratchet
mechanism to reduce the transmission's movement on the tranny
jack.
7) Remove
the 4 remaining bolts that hold the tranny in. Two between the
tranny and engine, two between the tranny mount and car.
8) Slide
tranny and jack (don't just pull the jack only) towards rear car
and lowering the transmission slightly. You want to keep the tranny
as horizontal as possible. Make sure the gear shift know support
bracket clears the top of the tranny.
VIII.
Pressure plate and clutch disc removal:
1) Brace
fly wheel from turning. A flat screwdriver and jack are useful.
2) Remove
bolts. (The pressure plate is the white thing below)
Below is
a picture of the old and new clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out
bearing, and pilot bushing.
IIX.
Fly wheel removal
1) Brace
flywheel.
2) Remove
the eight bolts that hold the fly wheel. (See picture below)
3) Remove
the two dust covers.
Here is
what my resurfaced and re-installed flywheel looks like.
IX.
Rear Crankshaft oil seal removal
1) Use a
hammer to hammer a medium sized flat screw driver to between the
very top-center of the crankshaft oil seal (the brown thing in the
picture below) and the oil seal retainer bracket (the
silver/aluminum thing around the brown oil seal). Once you hit the
small bracket behind the seal, pry out the old oil seal by pressing
the screwdriver handle upwards. The small brackets behind the oil
seal are at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock which prevent you from
hammering the screwdriver in too deep. Be very careful to not
scratch the crankshaft (the part that the flywheel bolts into).
Scratches could cause a permanent oil leak. Keep the old oil seal,
you will need it to reinstall the new oil seal, because oil seal
should be recessed.
Installation
X. Rear
Crankshaft oil seal installation
1) Put
the new oil seal into place. Place the old oil seal upside down on
top of the new oil seal. Hammer the old oil seal to press the new
oil seal into place. The new oil seal should be slightly recessed
just like the old oil seal. Hammer lightly at first. The oil seal
should go on evenly. Once the oil seal is on, you may have to
hammer the old oil seal harder to recess the new oil seal
properly.
2) Clean
any oil between the crankshaft oil seal retainer and the oil pan.
Use some high-temperature silicone gasket maker to fill that gap.
Make sure it is flush, you do not want the flywheel to rub against
the gasket maker.
XI.
Flywheel installation
1)
Resurface flywheel (about $30).
2)
Install flywheel dust covers.
3)
Install flywheel
4) Clean
flywheel surface of any grease, oil or dirt. This is important for
the new clutch to grab properly.
XII.
Clutch and pressure plate installation
1) Hold
new clutch plate into place and put clutch alignment tool into
place to center and hold clutch plate.
2) Bolt
pressure plate into place and make sure that the three flywheel
studs are seated in the proper pressure plate holes.
XIII.
Tranny and other Installation stuff
1) Make
sure you do no pinch the engine ground cable between the engine and
the tranny. The cable should be bolted to the outside of the tranny
at the very top, top-left.
Follow
removal procedure in reverse to install other parts.
XIV.
Clutch pedal travel adjustment
This may
be necessary to get the clutch to engage properly. In my case the
car acted like I was only pushing the clutch pedal half way, when I
was actually pushing all the way to the floor. To test, come to a
complete stop on a level road, push the clutch all the way in and
put your car in first gear. If you car inches forward then it needs
adjustment. You should start to inch froward when you release the
clutch petal about an inch. To make the adjustment the car should
be off. Look under the dash. The clutch pedal pushes a shaft into
the clutch booster (similar to a break booster). The shaft is
threaded and there is a 14 mm nut that prevents it from
turning.
1) Use a
14 mm open end wrench to loosen the nut that is on the break
booster's shaft.
2) Turn
the break booster shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
3)
Tighten the 14 mm nut.
4) Repeat
process until clutch engages normally.
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