Ok to start with you have to remove the grill and the chrome around the lights. Then between the hood and the front plastic/fibreglass there is a crack with five hex screws the middle screw is smaller than the other four, take em out, there is two nuts one on the left and one on the right they are hidden under the chrome light cover hence the need to remove thelight surrounds. once all this has been done remove the plastic/fibreglass and unplug the turn and marker lights. Now the important part as the Cherokee has two latches one on the left and one on the right so from the front of the vehicle on the right take a long screwdriver and looking in under the hood push the little piece you can see to the right, now the left latch should pop up. Dont bother with the right latch as it also moves to the right but you can push on anything to open it. Now with the hood left side up you can reach in and grab the thin bar and pull it to the left and voila the hood will open. Removing the cable is eay just unscrew the door plate not all the way just loosen two screw closest to the dash and remove the two screws holding the plastic cover on the side wall and you can get it out. Next remove the three that's right three screws holding the release cable to the side wall. Next remove the two screws holding the fuse box to the front wall. Next remove the cable from under the hood just pop it out and open the two clips holding it to the hood. You can now pull it out through the fire wall and installthe new one the same way it came out you'll need a helper to push on the rubber stop as you pull the cable through from the engine compartment. Screw everything back in place and there you have it opened the hood and replaced the cable. www.a-pluspawnbrokers.co.nr
It may be true for this model year, but for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee (mine), it isn't this complicated. Remove both headlight bezels and both headlights. Behind the headlight bowl/socket/cup (thingy that the headlight sits in), there are two bolts. One goes straight up and down from the upper part behind the headlight socket and takes a 12mm socket. This holds the top part of the striker. Just offset from center toward the outside of the vehicle is another bolt that takes a 13 mm socket and is the only one you can really see. This one requires use of a universal to get to the socket. This is the only other bolt holding the strikers to the vehicle. Once you have the four bolts out, use something soft to gently pry the hood up and it will be released as normal from the center latch. I used the above method and succeeded in scratching the leading edge of my hood and the trailing edge of the grill.
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