How to change rear brakes of Isuzu Rodeo 2003?

I would begin by unfortunately asking another question first. What is your experince level with pad and shoe replacement? Second I would advise the trip to the local parts store for one of Chiltons repair guides for your model and next listen to any advise the counter person has. Typically those folks have quite a bit of automotive experince and can save a lot of time and heartache with just a few Words. Thirdly use good quality jack stands and a jack rated for the vehicle. Now then, while not being familiar with the 2003 model I will make a few assumptions and give you the standard truck with hub and shoes version. 1.Most important...level surface, break loose the lug nuts on the ground with the parking brake on as you will likely not be able to after it is off the ground...only crack them loose Do Not Back Them Off. 2. Chock front wheels take parking brake Off as it will prevent the hub removal later. 3. Jack up the wheel you will be working on and only do one side at a time (also a digital camera is great for reference if you do not have a picture or book to go by)MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS STABLE and on stands which are rated for its weight. 4.remove the lug nuts and wheel...now you are staring at the hub...it may be worn on the inside a little and the shoes may be inside a bit of a track making it difficult to remove. refrain from prying against the back plate as it is not really all that substantial. LIGHT tapping and I repeat LIGHT tapping around the outside of the drum sometimes shakes stubborn rotors...rubber mallet preffered. 5. once the (drum and hub...same thing)is off you should take note of the spring positions and at the top you will see the "wheel cylinder" it is the small deal (typically at the top with rubber ends that forces the shoes out to contact the hub)should be inspected...it should be dry..that is no break fluid..brake dust is going to be there..but if any fluid is around in there it will have to be replaced.6. now is the nice time to take a poloroid or digital photo so you know where things are and how they should look when you are finished...also now is the time for inspection of the inside of the hub..drum whichever you want to call it...its minimum thickness is often cast into the metal...if not the library or Chiltons manual will tell you if you are below that thickness...replace if needed..do not skimp on brake parts..they are far to important (a car that won't start is a bad thing.....a car that won't stop is a deadly thing.)7.brake spring pliers are available if you like at most auto stores and they make things easier...if that gets into the budget too much a good pair of regular pliers will work...carefully remove the springs noting their condition and position...if they look pitted..cracked..just plain not good replace them...spring kits are sold separately most of the time...in fact always in my experience.8. remove all the springs and shoes..the little coil springs with the cup retainers are usually the ones that cause the invention of new and exiting curse Words...it sometimes helps to have a friend hold the nail looking rod while you turn the retaining cup...especially for installation.9. clean everything...do your best to keep any oil grease or fluid off of the new shoes as this will contaminate them and reduce their stopping power and longevity.10. Put her back together with those shiney new parts and refer to you own sketches..photos or manuals to see that everyting looks as it should and that the self adjuster rod...( the thing with the spur like wheel attached is contacting its actuator and that the parking brake cable...you will know it when you see it...is attached and looks like it should.11. put the hub(technically the hub is the flat plate with the lug bolts in it now that I think about it...)..put the drum back over it and access the adjuster wheel from the back side..adjust the new shoes until you just make contact with the hub. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts as much as you can before returning the vehicle to the ground. Once back on the ground fully tighten the lugs in oposition to on another..no1.then6.then 2. then 4..my numbers are arbitrary...but you get what i mean..Now that side is done so go to the next one...it will be much easier now that you have the experience...mostly try to keep a cool head and frequent stops for walking around and regaining composure are perfectly o.k. ....it will keep you safe and cost you less in the long term...Good luck sincerely Randy R. Lex KY let me know how it comes out.....richardsonrandal@Yahoo.com