How does a ocean wave become a breaker at the shoreline?

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1173799

2026-05-10 17:40

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As an ocean wave approaches the shoreline, it encounters shallower water, which causes the wave to slow down and increase in height. The wave's base drags on the ocean floor, while the top continues to move forward, creating a steep slope. Once the wave becomes too steep to maintain its shape, it collapses or breaks, resulting in a breaker that crashes onto the shore. This process is influenced by factors such as wave energy, water depth, and the slope of the beach.

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