It is a pain to do, but you need two 17mm wrenches and a friend. The starter is on the right side of the car bolted to the transmission.
Friend crawls under the car, which is jacked up and on jackstands (this procedure also works for Buses but you don't have to jack them up), and puts the box-end of one of the wrenches on the top bolt.
You put the other wrench in your hand, reach around behind the fan shroud on the right side, feel around until you find the nut, then remove it with the wrench you have.
Once you get the bolt out, you go to your bolt can, get a bolt about an inch long, then take both bolts to a welding shop and tell the guy "this is a VW starter bolt (holding up the long one) and I'd like you to weld this bolt (holding up the other one) to the head of it." The guy will take it in the back and come out a couple minutes later with the job done. Give him five bucks, thank him nicely and you'll be able to remove the bolt easily forevermore.
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