I recently replaced the positive
battery cable on my 1999 Saab 9-3 5 door hatchback that has the 185
hp engine. I thought I would share my experience to help others
decide if they want to do this themselves or have a professional do
it for them. This is for the model that ran from 1999-2002 (2003
for the convertible). While I don't know if all of the cars from
these years would follow these same instructions, I would think
that they would all be very close.
Summary: The positive battery cable
has two wires, a short wire and a long wire. The short wire is very
simple to work with, but the long wire proved to be much more
difficult. It took me about 3.5 hours to complete the entire
job.
Tools/equipment needed: 10 mm
socket, 12 mm socket, socket extension, socket driver, 13 mm box
end wrench, cable ties, floor jack
Step 1) Open the hood and
disconnect the negative battery terminal and then the positive
battery terminal using the 13 mm box end wrench.
Step 2) Remove the protective
battery cover.
Step 2) Remove the hold down bolt
clamp at the base of the front of the battery, then remove the
clamp and lift the battery out of the car.
Step 3) Disconnect the short wire
from the fuse box.
Follow the short wire from the
positive terminal cable to the cable termination point. You will
see that it feeds into a fuse box. Remove the black cover to the
fuse box and remove the nut holding the end of the cable in place.
Lift the end of the cable off the mounting screw.
Step 4) Begin removal of the long
end of the cable.
Note: The long cable is connected
electrically in two places, and physically in three (not counting
plastic wire ties). The electrical connections are to the starter
solenoid and to the alternator, each being held in place by a 12 mm
nut. The cable is also physically mounted by 3 clamps, 2 being held
down by 10 mm bolts and one being help down by a 12 mm nut.
Jack the car up (remember to place
jack stands for safety), crawl under the car, and locate the end of
the positive cable which is attached to the back of the alternator.
Using a 12 mm socket, remove the nut holding the end of the cable
in place. Note the angle that the cable is attached to the back of
the alternator, and lift the end of the cable off of the mounting
screw.
Step 5) Locate the nut mounting the
cable to the starter solenoid. Using a 12 mm socket, remove the nut
and then remove the cable from the mounting screw. Note that the 2
nuts are different sizes (the larger one is for the alternator and
the smaller one is for the starter solenoid).
Step 6) Cut and remove the cable
tie that is holding down the cable to the starter solenoid.
Step 7) Working from the top of the
engine, locate the 3 hold down clamps. If you follow the cable from
the battery connection, the 1st connection uses a 10 mm bolt. Using
a 10 mm socket and socket extension, remove the bolt.
Step 8) The second hold down clamp
uses a 12 mm nut. Locate the nut and remove using a 12 mm socket
and extension.
Step 9) The 3rd hold down clamp
uses a 10 mm bolt. Using a 10 mm socket and socket extension,
remove the bolt. Note that the engine coolant temperature sensor
wires will be very close to where you will be inserting the socket
extension. Make sure you do not disturb the wires.
Step 10) Remove the remaining cable
hold downs. There are 2 cable ties that hold down the short cable
and 1 or 2 more that hold down the long cable. There are also two
rubber guides that help keep the long cable in place. These can be
snapped open, although one of mine had completely disintegrated and
I did not bother to replace it as it didn't really seem
necessary.
Step 11) Carefully pull the long
cable out. After the cable has been removed, check to see if
anything has been disturbed. I found I had knocked off one vacuum
line located below the long cable.
Step 12) Remove the 3 clamps from
the old cable and reinstall on the new cable making sure that they
are placed back on using the same orientation as on the
original.
Step 13) Installation is the
reverse of the removal. I first installed the short cable to the
fuse box and replaced the cover. I then ran the long cable to the
alternator, replaced the larger 12 mm nut (make sure you have the
end of the cable rotated properly. There is a raised plastic guide
on the back of the alternator that helps keep the end spade angled
correctly. ) I then hooked up the cable to the starter solenoid and
reinstalled the smaller 12 mm nut and installed a new cable tie.
Then I re-mounted the cable clamps. I found this to be the most
challenging part, especially re-installing the 10 mm nut that is
located below the coolant temperature sensor. The last step is to
install new cable ties in the areas where they had been originally.
Then install the battery and battery hold down nut and clamp, the
battery cover, and attach the positive and negative terminals.
Start the car up and make sure that everything is working properly.
It is very easy to disturb other parts of the car, especially when
removing and installing the 3 cable clamps, so it is important to
make sure that all your gauges are working, etc.
Hope this helps!
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