I have a '94 civic dx hatchback, so this may not apply to other models. If you open your hatchback glass and raise it until it's about horizontal, and look towards the top of it, you will see a snap-on panel with two slots, located below the third brake light. Inside the slots are tabs, which need to be pressed down (towards the glass) to unlock the panel. I did this by pressing down on the tab on each side with a standard screwdriver while lifting on the panel, starting with the one on the left (driver) side which is a bit higher. There is probably a special shop tool to do this. Once you get the panel off, you will see two wide Phillips screws which must be taken out to remove the lamp housing, then you can change the bulb. It's a pain.
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