Also don't forget the all important - 3"screw in the top hinge trick. I've actually made a decent amount of money and fame just taking a 3" woodscrew and sucking up the top hinge so the door doesn't get stuck and it won't rub the strike (or jamb) anymore. Most people think I am simply amazing and call me McGiver (sp?) There are 3 or 4 screws in each door hinge. remove the short screws closest to the center of the wall (the outer two are just lined up with the edge of the 1/2 drywall, so it won't do any good to screw the 3" screws in there - they can't bite into drywall...) put the 3" screw in the holes and drive it into the stud. You need to use a lot of pressure when you are driving the screw home, because you are trying to move the whole jamb, hinge and door sideways approx 1/8". Note: usually there is a 1/4" space between the door jamb and the stud (rough opening), if the door was installed with the hinge side directly against a stud or there are shims directy behind the top hinge - you are screwed, the installer of the door needs to be shot at (with the nail gun at a range of approx 50'-100' while wearing safety glasses of course - him not you..). He's a framer anyway and can't do finish carpentry work - he is not capable of doing a proper job of it and should stick with what he knows...your only option at that point would be to hire a finish/interior trim carpener to creativley solve the issue. Wow! I'm out of breath on that one...(I've got a lot of framing buddies by the way, I don't hate them nor envy them. In fact I'm a framer and can run circles around them framing because I'm a finish carpenter, Ha!) Chris P.S all this was to avoid planing and repainting the edge of your door - I'm trying to save you money and money make the...whatever Late...
If you can't unlock the handle, remove the knobs and you can open it with a flat bladed screwdriver where the handle goes through the barrel of the lock.
Copyright © 2026 eLLeNow.com All Rights Reserved.