The cream dye mixture makes the hair shaft swell to accept the color and process further. Certain ingredients that do this are metallic lead and bismuth citrate --- and in proscribed doses that are approved as safe. Our hair has keratin and it's the sulfur within that oxidizes with the chemicals, causing a color change.
The three types of hair color --- permanent, semi-permanent and temporary --- all have chemicals in varying levels. The permanent colors are obviously meant to last longer and, according to the Food and Drug Administration, they are broken up into two categories: oxidation dye or progressive dyes.
The oxidation type becomes a dye after a chemical reaction with hair. The progressive type are dyes themselves but need additives to get to the desired shade; some of the chemicals used to do that are ammonia, soap and detergent, a conditioner and hydrogen peroxide. What you generally see in the box are a developer and an ammonia-based dye that are mixed together to form a cream.
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