How do you replace all brake lines on A Honda Accord?

Brake lines (which are steel) or brake hoses (which are hoses)? Hoses are easy:

Tools and parts needed:

Set of tubing wrenches

Jack and four jackstands

Motive Power Bleeder with the correct adapter for a Honda

Two brand-new quarts good brake fluid - a name-brand DOT 3 is fine, that's what all Japanese cars have in them

Brake bleeding wrench, hose and container.

Four RUBBER brake hoses. Don't use stainless steel hoses unless this is a race car that'll never be used on the street - very, very few stainless brake hoses are DOT-approved and you don't need them on the street anyway. (The draw of stainless brake hoses is they can't expand under pressure and rubber ones do. The reality is a street car's braking system doesn't have enough pressure in it to stretch the hoses anyway.)

If it's been a while since your last brake job, a set of brake pads and some grease for the backs of them

How to:

Jack up your car, put it on stands, remove the wheels and put the wheels under the car with the pretty side facing down. If the car falls off the stands, you want it to fall on the wheels and not the ground.

Connect the brake bleeding hose to the right rear bleeder nipple, put the end in the catch container, open the nipple, open your car door, sit on the ground and very gently pump the brakes until fluid stops coming out. Do the same thing on the left rear. Close both bleeder nipples.

Use a tubing wrench to change the brake hoses. This is the easiest part of the whole thing: remove the old hose and install the new one in its place.

If you have new brake pads, put 'em on now.

At this point you need to fill your brakes with fluid. Test the bleeder by connecting it to the master cylinder and pumping it up to 15 psi. If it doesn't leak or explode, unscrew the pump to relieve the pressure and unhook the adapter from the master cylinder. Open the first quart of fluid. Fill the master cylinder reservoir, then pour the rest in the Power Bleeder. Connect the bleeder to the master cylinder and pump it up to 15 psi. Go to the right rear wheel. Hook up the bleeder hose, put some brake fluid in the container (if you have some old but unused brake fluid sitting around, this is a good use for it), and open the bleeder valve. A LOT of air will come out, then fluid with bubbles, then dirty fluid with no bubbles, then clean fluid with no bubbles. When you get clean fluid with no bubbles, close the valve and go to the left front wheel. Make sure there's fluid in the pressure bleeder tank. Pump it back up to 15 psi and bleed the front wheel. Check the pressure bleeder, go to the left rear wheel and bleed it, then bleed the right front wheel after checking the bleeder again. Next, put half the second quart of fluid in the bleeder and rebleed all the wheels just to make sure. (If you have a manual transmission with hydraulic clutch, bleed that after the wheels are bled.)

Finally, put your wheels back on, set the car on the ground, tighten the lugs to 90 lb-ft, and go for a ride.

To install brake LINES, you'll need to do all those things but you'll have to add the brake lines (Honda calls them "brake pipes") you need to your shopping list. They're rigid steel so it takes quite a bit of work to snake them up into position.